What I Learned

My research project while in London was about the effect of World War 2 on London and it's people. After being in the city for 3 weeks and seeing the actual effect on the city itself I was struck with a whole new level of understanding. The way the citizens of London suffered throughout this war is hard for an American like me to understand. The food rationing, clothing coupons, endless bombing... it was horrific. We were so separated from these conditions thanks to the Atlantic Ocean and just never experienced the same level of hardship on the homefront. The city bears its scars proudly and lets some of the damage stand as a testament to what they endured and rose above.

The people who lived in London during World War 2 sent their sons, brothers and husbands overseas to fight, sent their young children to the countryside for protection and lived in constant fear of being bombed, invaded, losing their house, running out of food on top of the stress of war overseas. Every part of the city was affected: even the Tube became bomb shelters and thousands literally lived there throughout the war due to the bombing and housing shortages. Even the royals were affected: Princess Elizabeth had to use clothing coupons to purchase her wedding dress. The strength of the Londoners was shown throughout these years. They "kept calm and carried on" no matter what. When food rations grew scarce, they got even more creative with their recipes and grew gardens on every spare green space including the moat of the Tower of London.  When fabric and clothes ran out, they learned to sew and mend what they had to last. Men's trousers became skirts and women's dresses became children's shirts. The ingenuity and ability to adapt was integral to the people making it out of the war as positively as they did. It could have been so much worse....

I must say that I enjoyed researching this topic exponentially. It was so interesting and completely intertwined with most everything in London. I was lucky enough to be there for the 70th anniversary of VE Day, the end of the war in Europe and a day of huge celebration in London especially. I am proud to be an American and I am proud of the role we played in World War 2 but I have a huge amount of respect for the British people and London for how they survived the war and rose above it as strong as ever. They truly embody the idea of "Keep Calm and Carry On" .

Day 15: Imperial War Museum Visit

This morning I had a private meeting with Terry Charman, the senior historian at the Imperial War Museum. I am so honored that he took the time out of his busy schedule to meet with me and discuss my project about World War 2 and the effect it had on the people of London; which is one of his specialties. I had a wonderful discussion with Mr. Charman about the effect of the second world war on the people of London then and how the impact of the war lasted well beyond victory. There were two big things I got out of our discussion:

1. The civilians of London suffered greatly from the extreme bombing. While the government tried to combat the bombs and rebuild for the people, they often learned the lessons of how to best deal with the dire situation after the need had passed. They learned from their mistakes but sometimes it was too late and many civilians lost their lives as a result. On the flip side, the bombing did not kill as many civilians as they had anticipated and this was a result of the precautions put in place and a strong effort on the part of all Londoners. 
2. There was no specific part of London that was the most affected. While the East End was bombed the most heavily, everyone in the city suffered from the constant stress of the bombing, rationing, ford and clothing shortages, the blackout, having husbands, sons and brothers off at war and trying to keep morale alive in the midst of total devastation.

The war did have an unbelievable impact on the city of London and the people of the city. The legacy of the war I have discovered throughout my research is that the war effected very single part of life in London during the war and long after the war. The civilians suffered losses that rivaled the losses on the front lines. People in London are still highly affected by this war and its repercussions. When the speak of life "after the war" they are still speaking of World War 2. In America we were never affected on the same scale as the British people; we were not bombed out of our homes, we were to rationed as heavily and we did not sustain anywhere near the level of civilian deaths. The legacy of World War 2 I grew up on in the United States is significantly different then the legacy here in London. I think that is the biggest shock from my project: I thought I knew this war well and had a thorough understanding of it but upon arriving in the city that still bears scars from the war and suffered so greatly has opened my eyes to a whole other part of the second world war.

Staggering statistics

 After my meeting with Mr. Charman, I went through the entire museum. There was a special exhibit called "Fashion on the Ration" which revolved around how people dressed and how fashion changed during the severe rationing throughout World War 2. The coupon system for clothing limited the amount of clothes you could buy new and the clothes were more practical and no frills. Utility Wear was the norm in this time which was a basic, hardy wardrobe built to last but with no frills or embellishments. When even these basic clothes became scarce, the government encouraged women to "Make Do and Mend" their clothing. Re-purposing and mending was the new norm. Sewing classes were offered around the city and there women could learn to turn old mens shirts into baby clothes or an old pair of trousers into a girls skirt. Fabric shortages caused the skirt hemlines to rise, pleating to become unfashionable and things like double breasted jackets and silk stockings were not allowed. It is amazing to me how much the people of London had to live through. America got out of this war very easy thanks to the Ocean's of protection but England was right there with just the Channel for protection. We never saw the level of food and clothing rationing , bombing or death in America that they dealt with day to day in London. It was hard to understand just how little we suffered in the war until I was actually there to see the lasting damage and read their history. Clothing and food rationing was something I had never realized existed until I began to study the wars effect on London.... And it had such a lasting effect on Londons people.

Examples of rationing information

Another part of the museum I found interesting was their Holocaust exhibit. It was so incredibly well done. I cannot say I enjoyed it as their is nothing about the Holocaust that is enjoyable but I was deeply moved and learned a lot throughout that exhibit. Such a terrible and bloody stain on human history that must never be forgotten so that it never get repeated.

They had a portion of the Berlin Wall in front of the Museum

Overall my visit to the Imperial War Museum was wonderful. The hours I spent in the Museum were highly informative and the whole museum is so well done, dedication to detail was impeccable and every exhibit great to explore. I have to say it was my favorite museum in London.

Such a wonderful museum

** I want to say a huge thank you to Mr. Terry Charman for taking some time out of his busy day to let me pick his brain about World War 2 and the effect it had on the people of London. I am so thankful he chose to share some of his vast knowledge with me.

Day 14: Warwick Castle, Stratford-Upon-Avon and Oxford University

Today we had another day trip! Our tour guide today was hilarious and our driver's name was Atilla (I am NOT kidding) and he was also hilarious. Our whole group was much better then the first day trip which made for an enjoyable day despite some rain. Our first stop was the ancient castle Warwick built by William the Conqueror in 1068. The castle was later turned into a stately family home and that was what we toured. The castle was beautiful and there was ancient arms and paintings adorning the walls. Unfortunately it was raining very hard throughout this stop which made it a bit less fun.

Very rainy morning at Warwick Castle

Our next stop was Stratford-Upon-Avon to view the birthplace of William Shakespeare. It amazes me that the house is still there and walking through it was so cool because you literally stepped back in time. In one room there were professional actors who said they would take requests from any Shakespeare work and perform a part of it. The performed the first meeting of Romeo and Juliet wonderfully. Such a fun touch. The whole town of Stratford was adorable and just so English.

Birthplace of Shakespeare!!

Inside his house

Our last stop was the oldest university in the world: Oxford. We took a short tour of the campus but it is so sprawling that we only got through a small piece. We were able to go inside Brasnose College which boasts alumni such as David Cameron and William Golding. I also got to see the statue that inspired Nearly Headless Nick in the Harry Potter movies and the lightning bolts carved into the sidewalk outside the Sheldonian Theatre that gave inspiration for Harry to get his lightning bolt scar. I also saw the Eagle and Child pub where C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien met to read each others developing novels and discuss writing and literature. As a huge fan of both, this was a huge fangirl moment.

Original stained glass beside replaced clear glass following WW2 bombing that shattered the original windows in this room inside Brasnose

Project related, inside the common room for Brasnose College, some of the stained glass windows had been blown out during bombing of WW2. Instead of replacing the stained glass, they replaced the windows with clear glass so the effect of the war would never be forgotten. This is yet another example of how this country bears their scars with pride. They choose to remember the bad times and how they rose above it instead of covering up the scars and trying to forget.

Most beautiful university

Nearly Headless Nick!!!

Look familiar? Harry?

Pub where C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien discussed their famous novels such as Lord of the Rings and The Lion, The  Witch and the Wardrobe!

On the way home, a car broke down in the middle of the road and our bus driver and guide decided to move it for the guy so they put the bus in park and literally pushed the car out of the way. Quite an entertaining end to our day. Overall, I highly enjoyed this day trip as I got to see more of England and view some places of huge historical and cultural significance. Of course I had to get an Oxford sweatshirt so I look extra smart back in the states ( I have always wanted an Oxford sweatshirt!).

Day 13: Sir Winston and some Mummies

This morning I decided to go visit the Churchill War Rooms. My tube journey was supposed to be 2 easy stops and one platform change.... an hour later I had walked 3 miles and been on 6 different tube trains. Finally I made it to my destination thanks to some directions from a very sweet government security guard. The Churchill War Rooms were the underground command centre for the government throughout World War 2. The bunker has been preserved so well that it gives the impression you are stepping into 1942 and the center of the war effort. Some of the rooms were used as bedrooms for the people who were running the Map Rooms, the typists, the secretaries and even a room for Sir Winston Churchill himself. They were running this immense war out of some very cramped quarters. Some of the other impressive rooms included the Map Room, in which they never turned the lights off or left unmanned until VE Day in 1945 and the Cabinet Conference room which was left intact the same way it was left when the turned the lights out in 1945 including the small doodle drawings of Hitler on the wall maps. It was just mind boggling to see how they ran such an immense and strong war effort out of such a cramped space.

There was also a whole museum dedicated to Sir Winston Churchill himself. He was such an enigmatic man. The testimonies of the people who worked for him in the bunker throughout the war all mirrored the same general idea: he was a strict taskmaster, a perfectionist, a jokester and the best man they had ever met and had the privilege to work for. It discussed his life throughout the war; he was in his mid-60's throughout the war and put in 14-18 hour days often staying up until 3am to get everything done. He saw no problem asking his staff to do the same. His war effort was a strong one and he was very hands on with everything. he intended to be present at the D-Day invasions of Normandy but King George pleaded with him to stay safe in England because he was too important. He also was a smart diplomat by making great friends with American President Franklin D. Roosevelt prior to the war declaration so he had a strong ally when war did start. He was a genius with words and always loved writing, I think this is why he gave such inspiring speeches. He was a strong and proud man born into a rich. noble family but he had to make his own way in life from the start. He was sent off to boarding school at the tender age of 7 and his parents were very absent from his life. His father died when he was 20 and he always aspired to be a politician just like his father. He was in the army for a time where he excelled and inspired great loyalty among the other soldiers. It seemed the general theme was that no matter what he did or where he went, the people who surrounded him respected him immensely and became fiercely loyal. That is a mark of a truly great man.

Something I found interesting was that he actually lost the first election for Prime Minister following the victory of World War 2, largely thanks to his leadership. But, at the ripe age of 77, he once again won the election for Prime Minister and served the Government until 1955 when he was 81 years old.

This was such a great experience for my project. It gave such a great insight to how the war was run and the people who ran it. I loved getting to "know" Sir Winston Churchill and his life.

After the War Rooms, we went to the British Museum to see the famous Rosetta Stone and lots of mummies from Egypt and other artifacts. It was incredible- so much history in one building.

Day 5: WW2 is Everywhere and VE Day Celebrations continue!

VE Day Continues today! 

Another big day with lots of great events and tons of history. This morning we went on a walking tour of London's East End. This area has undergone an amazing and diverse history. It started out as the outskirts of London housing the slums and immigrants. Eventually the Huguenots from France came over to London to avoid persecution for their protestant religion and began a thriving silk weaving trade in this area of town. The buildings they lived in still survive. This area underwent many ethnic changes as groups moved in and out based on the economy. Eventually the Jews replaced the French and then the Bangladesh replaced the Jews. More about this tour in my other blog post. This area was heavily bombed during World War 2 since it was a hub of industry. Evidence of this bombing was noticeable on buildings such as the building below.

Our tour guide's family is Jewish and they lived in this area. Her father was born in 1938 and was evacuated to the countryside during the Blitz Bombing of London several times, as were many children from London. The evacuation was called operation Pied Piper and began on September 1, 1939 and 3.5 million people (mostly children) were evacuated during the war time conditions. Not just children were evacuated to the countryside for safety- art and national treasures were also moved.  Those who were not evacuated retreated to bomb shelters built in backyards throughout London and evacuation locations. Some children were evacuated as far as Australia, Canada, South Africa and New Zealand. A famous representation of the WW2 evacuations is in C.S. Lewis' famous book The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe were the 4 Pevensie children were evacuated to a country manor house where they found the magical wardrobe that led to Narnia. 

Children being evacuated to the countryside in 1939

The Pevensie children at the train station after evacuation to the countryside. Notice the tickets on their jackets with their information and destination.

After the East End tour, we headed for the Victoria and Albert Museum. The museum was awe inspiring and more will be told about that in my next blog post. However, there was a nice exhibition about the style of WW2. Cloth was rationed along with everything else and the result was a very plain and functional wardrobe called "Utility" wear. It was rationed to the point that no pleating or folds were allowed in skirt because it was an unnecessary use of fabric and skirts could only be knee length. Jackets could only have 3 buttons. This wardrobe is undeniably English and I recognized it immediately from photos and history books. 

Utility Outfits

Utility Womens shoes

Also in honor of VE Day's 70th Anniversary, there was a 1940's themed concert at Horse Guards Parade Grounds tonight. I was not able to go but I did watch on the telly and the celebration was so cool. It felt like the celebration was truly taking place 70 years ago. Tomorrow morning there is a special VE Day service in Westminster Abbey and I will be in the area and hopefully will see some of the happenings. Overall, being in London for this 70th Anniversary of VE Day has been so incredible. To be a part of the ceremony at the Cenotaph yesterday, witness the memorials city wide and feel the pulse of national pride and see veterans who gave so much honored so wonderfully is an unforgettable experience. Upcoming on the blog will be how the Tube was used in WW2 and what the original 1945 VE Day celebration was like. Stay tuned!!

Day 4: Victory in Europe Day 70th Anniversary

Victory in Europe 70th Anniversary 

Today was VE Day here in London. I had the privilege to be in Westminster during the 70th Anniversary of the Victory in Europe Day Ceremony at the Cenotaph (Britains tomb of the unknown soldier essentially) and the laying of the wreaths. It was so incredible- I cannot even describe the feeling of that moment and how lucky I feel to have been in London for this monumental moment in history. I literally stood on a fence to be able to see some of the ceremony and caught glimpses of Prince Andrew and all the party leaders of Britain including newly elected Prime Minister David Cameron. I was able to go and view the wreaths up close after the ceremony. What a moment. There were also many WW2 veterans there for the ceremony and I stood beside one at the Cenotaph and I was just in awe of what he lived through and helped to do. What an event and I am just so grateful to have witnessed it in person amidst a giant crowd and sing God Bless the Queen with them (because when in London....) as they celebrated the biggest Victory their country may ever see.

Standing on the fence to see it all happen!

Look at that crowd!!!

The Cenotaph

There was also a collection of World War 2 vehicles and artillery showcased in St. James Park today. There were men and women dressed in period uniforms and it was like stepping back in time to the war. War memorials all around London had wreaths placed on them as well. 

A bit rainy today. Always wear your trench coat with a hood when in London. Always

We also visited the Banqueting House today. This is one of the only surviving architectural pieces from the banqueting era and was designed by the famed architect Inigo Jones in 1619. It is also famous for the ornate ceiling by Ruben's painted in 1635. This is the only remaining part of Whitehall Palace and is famous as the site of King Charles I's beheading in 1649.

Wow. 

Next up was the Household Cavalry Museum and Horse Guards Parade area. There were the classic mounted cavalry outside the museum and of course I had to get a picture. The Horse Guards and Horse Guards Parade have barely changed over time. They retain ancient practices and keep the traditions of Britain alive.

I would find the horses in London

Also visited Trafalgar Square for the WW2 memorials featured there today. While standing in Trafalgar, this old style London double decker bus with 1940's advertisements and the people on the bus were dressed in period 1940's outfits and waving newspapers flashing the famous VICTORY headline. I thought this was such a fun touch. 

Back in time 70 years

In Trafalgar Square, the change the far right statue regularly. Right now it is "Gift Horse", a large skeletal horse with a bow on its front leg that reads the daily London financial market. Of course I was excited about another Equestrian thing in London.

Gift Horse

Trafalgar Square

Another aspect of the VE day celebration was these informational points all throughout Trafalgar. They each had photos and information and even an audio speech from Winston Churchill about what happened on VE Day in 1945 in London. People crowded Trafalgar then and jumped in the fountains, danced in the street and celebrated in a way they had not celebrated in years. To glimpse that through photos in the place it happened on the day it happened was so incrediable.

VE Day Remembrance

Overall, what a day. I am so grateful to have been in London for the 70th anniversary of VE Day. To have it coincide with my project and add so much to my understanding of the war and the people who survived it is just beyond amazing. Everywhere I turn I see something else I want to do or see and I know my 3 weeks will go too quick but I am enjoying every second. I am off to bed, walked 8 miles today. Tomorrow we have a walking tour of the East End and then because it is going to rain (surprise, surprise) we are planning to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum. Fun fun fun!!!

Day 3: Green in the City

What a day! Today was voting day in London which was pretty cool to see. We logged 13.5 miles today walking around the city. We had class this morning and went to a cute little Camden farmers market and had the best hamburger and apple juice ever.

We hit the parks today because it was absolutely beautiful- sunny, mid 60's and just gorgeous walking weather. Getting there was a fun challenge, lots of Tube platform changes but we are really starting to get the hang of the Tube. The parks are amazing. We did St. James Park, Green Park, Hyde Park and started exploring Kensington Gardens (more time for that later). The parks are so nicely landscaped and there are so many amazing memorials and statues. I even saw a paint horse being ridden in Hyde Park and it made me very happy.

I did not realize how many World War 2 memorials there were in the parks. Every time I turned around there was a different one. My favorite was the Bombing of Britain Memorial in Green Park. The statue was so awe inspiring and just stunningly gorgeous from every angle. Since it is the 70th anniversary of the end of World War 2 in Europe tomorrow, there is a ton of memorials and wreaths all over the memorials which adds an extra element to the experience.

Other memorials in the parks included the Canadian Forces, Australian forces, Asian and Indian Forces and the Cavalry.

British Version the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from my understanding

Memorial to the Royal Calvary 

My favorite element was this personal memorial placed on the base of the Battle of Britain Memorial for Sgt. Nobby Clark who lost his life in the skies of Austria in 1944. It was placed there by his crewmate and friend Mike McGrory. It's the things like that that bring the war to life for me and give me a feel for the amazing people who lived through it and allowed for the victory achieved on May 8, 1945, now know as Victory in Europe Day. 

RIP Sgt. Clark. Thank you

Tomorrow is the 70th Anniversary of VE Day and there are many events happening around the city tomorrow and this weekend. I will have more about that in tomorrow's blog as I am trying to attend as much of the VE Day celebration as possible.

For now, I am going to rest my aching feet and hit the sack. It was a big day and I am just ready for more tomorrow! What an experience of a lifetime this has been so far and it's just the beginning.